When Jean Baptiste Le Moyne picked out the strategic spot on the Mississippi River for his French colony in 1718, little did he know that he had doomed a future city to tragedy nearly 290 years later. Situated on a swamp, and surrounded by the sea, Lake Pontchartrain and the Mississippi River, the subsiding city of New Orleans chose to swim rather than sink with the construction of a system of levees, pumps and canals to protect the city from flooding.
However, on the 30 August 2005, Hurricane Katrina, one of the worst hurricanes ever to hit the United States, slammed into the region, catapulting New Orleans into world headlines that followed the struggle of the community to cope with extensive damage, loss of life and the flooding of more than 75 percent of the city.
Despite the 'I told you so' attitude of much of the world, the proud residents of New Orleans were more determined than ever to rebuild their city, to bring back the jazz, the extravagant celebrations and the 'Big Easy' lifestyle that once made it the party capital of America. Local musicians have returned home, after-dark options are burgeoning and the strains of jazz and blues rhythms are once again echoing through the streets of the atmospheric French Quarter. Legendary Bourbon Street continues to host carnivals and parades, including the annual Mardi Gras, which has a reputation for being the most scandalous and sensational event on the world's festival calendar.
Attractions
Historic Preservation Hall is New Orleans' most popular jazz venue, where the famed Preservation Hall Jazz Band serves up first-rate Dixieland Jazz six nights a week in the French Quarter building (originally built as a residence in 1750). On Sundays the Olympia Brass Band performs instead. No seating, food or drinks are available, but crowds flock here simply for the music between 8pm and midnight.
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| Blaine Kern's Mardi Gras World |
In Algiers Point, on the west bank of the Mississippi River, stands a unique studio museum showcasing the famous New Orleans' Mardi Gras. The museum is actually the working studio of foremost carnival float designer, Blaine Kern, for whom producing floats and props for the city's annual Mardi Gras is a full-time job. Visitors can watch Kern and his team design and construct the giant sculptures of everything from cartoon characters to mythological figures and animals that will eventually parade through the streets.
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In the wake of one of the worst hurricanes to ever hit the United States, Gray Line Tours offers a three-hour bus ride around some of the hardest hit areas in New Orleans, including Lakeview and Gentilly, and is aimed at gathering support to rebuild the city. To respect the privacy of the locals, buses will not allow tourists off the bus to take pictures, but will pass around pictures of the storm and its destruction, and guides will describe the events before and after the storm hit the city, as well as explaining the significance of the levee system.
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The entertaining and informative Cabildo on Jackson Square in New Orleans' French Quarter explores the history of Louisiana from the first European explorations to the post-Civil War Reconstruction era from a multi-cultural perspective. The museum is the flagship of the Louisiana State Museum facilities and is housed in an historic building, dating to 1799, originally serving as the Spanish city council offices. Two major historic events took place in the Cabildo building: the Louisiana Purchase Transfer ceremonies in 1803 and later a landmark Supreme Court decision was handed down here that legalised racial segregation. The Cabildo takes pride that five American presidents have visited it.
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Regarded as the heart and soul of New Orleans, the French Quarter is the historic part of town covering about 90 square blocks radiating out from Chartres Street and Jackson Square. The Quarter, or Vieux Carre, was established in 1718 as a French military outpost, which was later taken over by the Spanish, merging into a freewheeling culture incorporating slaves, pirates, mercenaries, call-girls and various freemen of every colour and creed. Today the area looks and feels much as it did before Hurricane Katrina, with its wrought-iron railings and tall doorways, and clubs, bars, Cajun-seafood restaurants and shops all a-buzz. By day it is one of the best people-watching spots in the world, and the focus for visitors to New Orleans. By night the area becomes a giant street party throbbing with jazz music and a world-class dining district. The most famous street is Bourbon Street, where prostitutes literally mingle with priests, and bars stay open all night.
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If it walks, crawls or flies, find it at the Audubon Insectarium. Set in Custom House, the historic, white marble columned structure in Canal Street, this is the largest freestanding insectarium in the United States, devoted to over 900,000 species of insects. View thousands of live bugs and mounted specimens. The Cooking Show and Cultural Café offer culinary adventures; witness the art of cooking with these creepy criters and sample the treats, or opt for more traditional fare in the insect-themed café.
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| D-Day National WWII Museum |
The unique D-Day National World War II Museum was founded in 2000 by historian and author Dr Stephen Ambrose and has become regarded as a highlight of any New Orleans sightseeing tour. Situated in New Orleans' Warehouse District it depicts the June 6, 1944 invasion of Normandy, the Home Front during World War II, and the D-Day Invasions in the Pacific. Exhibit galleries include text panels, artefacts, and personal account stations where visitors can listen to the stories of war veterans. A panorama exhibit recreates a Normandy beach landing; there are also regular film shows.
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| Audubon Aquarium of the Americas |
New Orleans' state-of-the-art Audubon Aquarium, situated on the banks of the Mississippi River, is regarded as the best in America with highly entertaining exhibits. Underwater tunnels allow visitors to marvel at a Caribbean Reef and a re-creation of the Gulf of Mexico, complete with sharks. There is also a walk-through Amazon rainforest and an exhibit displaying the inside story of swamp life. The Aquarium features every type of aquatic creature from jellyfish and sea horses to sea otters and penguins. The Aquarium's 'sister' attraction, also run by the Audubon Institute, is the excellent New Orleans city zoo, situated in Audubon Park further uptown.
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| Besthoff Sculpture Garden |
View the priceless sculptures that make up the superb Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden. The Sculpture Garden provides a unique opportunity for visitors who treasure the arts, with a world-class collection of modern and contemporary sculptures presented in an exquisite natural setting. Next to the Sculpture Garden is the New Orleans Museum of Art and City Park, with centuries old oak trees, lagoons, a small amusement park and Storyland, a charming fairytale playground.
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Louis Armstrong Park is a 32-acre sanctuary of green trees and jazz melodies in the heart of the historic old quarter. Inside you'll find Congo Square, the meeting place of slaves in the 19th century. The Visitors' Facility also has exhibits and an indoor performance venue. Occasional free Sunday afternoon concerts are a highlight in the park.
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| Storyland and Carousel Gardens Amusement Park |
Kids in New Orleans love Storyland and the Carousel Gardens amusement park. Storyland is a fairytale playground featuring life-size storybook attractions such as Captain Hook's pirate ship, and an imitation whale from Pinocchio. The traditional wooden carousel at the theme park always draws a crowd, as do the bumper cars, lady-bug roller coaster and miniature trains.
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| Mississippi River Boat Rides |
Set on the banks of the Mississippi River, New Orleans is a great place to take kids for a boat ride. The Natchez steamboat traverses this great river and passes many of the city's historical sites, while the John James Audubon ferries passengers between the Aquarium of the Americas and the Audubon Zoo. There are also a number of Louisiana swamp tours which kids would love.
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| Louisiana Children's Museum |
The Louisiana Children's Museum is a fantastic attraction for kids with a vast selection of exhibits, art activities and educational programs to enjoy. The kid-sized Winn-Dixie grocery store is a favourite, as are the climbing wall and the giant bubble that kids can play in. Eye to Eye has fun showing the workings of the human eye, and Art Trek features drawing, painting and sculpture lessons.
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| New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum |
Voodoo came to Louisiana through African slaves, and has been practised since the early days of the city. New Orleans is known worldwide for its shady association with the darker arts, and the small but fascinating New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum has artefacts and exhibits depicting the history of its practice in the region. There is usually a voodoo priestess on hand to do palm readings and even make personalised gris-gris bags. The museum may also arrange excursions to voodoo rituals upon request.
Events
| New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival |
New Orleans
In late April, just before the onset of the summer heat and humidity, the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival is held in various locations. Numerous stages simultaneously present a vast cross-section of musical performances by top artists, ranging from traditional New Orleans jazz to Gospel, country, rap, hip-hop and Creole zydeco. In addition to the hundreds of performances and thousands of musicians the festival includes numerous food stalls and hundreds of arts and crafts displays making it a true celebration of the city's culture and heritage.
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New Orleans - French Quarter
No sooner has New Orleans recovered from the revelry of Mardi Gras than it starts all over again, with the celebration of St Patrick's Day being the perfect reason for another round of parades and parties through the downtown area, centred on Bourbon Street. Traditionally it is a day for the locals to gather on the streets and pavements with picnic baskets and umbrellas. Groups parade dancing down the street in costumes of green, dispensing flowers, beads and kisses to the spectators to the tune of amplified live bands on floats and trucks. The most popular 'throws' that the crowd vies for on this day are cabbages, carrots, onions and the odd potato. | |  |
New Orleans - New Orleans French Quarter, especially Jackson Square and the River Front
Featuring the 'world's largest jazz brunch' (with more than 40 booths serving specialities from well-known New Orleans restaurants), the annual French Quarter Festival is a showcase for local musicians and a gourmet chance to savour New Orleans flavour. On the music front 13 stages operate in the historic Vieux Carre district with a programme ranging from brass bands to gospel and traditional jazz. As far as the food goes there are all the classic New Orleans specialities like Jambalaya, Gumbo and bread pudding, with lots more besides. All this is spiced up with dozens of special events, many of them free, like fireworks over the Mississippi, art exhibitions, courtyard tours, music workshops and parades. | |  |
New Orleans - Throughout the city, especially Bourbon Street
Despite the devastating hurricane season in 2005, New Orleans is once again hosting the world-renowned annual Mardi Gras, a carnival that was first celebrated in its present form in 1856 and has earned a reputation for being the most scandalous and sensational annual event on the world's festival calendar. The origins of the carnival can be traced back to Roman times, but the date is based on the Christian calendar. Traditionally Mardi Gras day falls on 'Fat Tuesday', the day before Ash Wednesday, usually occurring during late February or early March each year. The history and traditions of the New Orleans Mardi Gras are confusing and complicated, but what it all means to revelling visitors is a series of ever-more exciting spectacular street parades through the French Quarter starting about 10 days before Fat Tuesday, building up to the big day. The whole affair turns into a major street party, with traditional strings of beads being exchanged in return for favours.
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New Orleans - French Quarter
New Orleans turns out in style to celebrate the city's most beloved and famous son, Louis 'Satchmo' Armstrong, in the week of the star's birthday each year. The line up of events honouring the music man who promoted jazz around the world includes an outdoor festival featuring music performances and local food along with seminars and discussion groups. There are also activities for children, art exhibitions, a jazz mass, parade and a 'club crawl' on the programme, and most events are free. | | 
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