Saturday, May 4, 2013

Marrakech, Morocco


Traversing the alleyways and souks of Marrakech, particularly in the Medina (Old City), it is easy to believe you have been transported back in time or stumbled onto a movie set for a medieval 'Arabian nights' production. It is this enchanting fairy tale quality that brings thousands of sightseers to the most visited of Morocco's three Imperial Cities. The heart of the Medina is Djemaa el-Fna, an irregular 'square' where everything seems to happen and the place to which tourists are drawn again and again to soak up the carnival-like environment. Tourism, though, has not spoilt the atmosphere, but seemingly rather added to it. The modern side of Marrakech (called Gueliz or Ville Nouvelle) with its luxury hotels, banks and streets bursting with motor scooters, blends well with the past in a metropolis made up of the peoples of the Berber Atlas tribes, Mahgrebis from the plains, and Saharan nomads.
Marrakech was founded in 1062 by Youssef bin Tachfine of the Almoravid dynasty, and his son perfected the city by bringing in architects and craftsmen from Cordoba to build palaces, baths, mosques and a subterranean water system. The city walls were raised from the red mud of the plains, with the snow-covered peaks of the High Atlas Mountains forming a backdrop for the city, though they are often hidden by the heat haze.
One of the many ways to soak up the sights and sounds of Marrakech is in one of the hundreds of horse-drawn carriages, known as caleches, that are for hire, but it is also necessary to take in the Medina's souks on foot, plunging into the hurly burly maelstrom of passages where tradesmen ply various crafts, from cloth dying, copper beating, and leather working to herbalists, perfumers and slipper makers, and where shopkeepers cajole passing tourists into taking a look at their glorious array of colourful crafts.


Attractions

Ouirgane
The village of Ouirgane, in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains about 90 minutes drive from Marrakech, stands at the centre of a popular resort area, where summers are cooler and winters less harsh than those experienced in the city. The surrounding Berber countryside offers picturesque villages and hamlets to explore, set in forests full of wildlife and groves of fruit trees, alongside streams cascading down from the High Atlas Mountains and fields of wild flowers. The area is also known for its extraordinarily beautiful rose gardens.
 


Saadian Tombs
The beautiful necropolis was built by the Saadian Sultan Ahmed el Mansour in the late 16th century as a final resting place for himself and his successors. There are 66 indoor tombs, lavishly decorated with colourful, intricate mosaics. The central mausoleum, the Hall of the Twelve Columns, is exceptionally ornate with a high vaulted roof, furnished with stunning carved cedar panels and columns of grey Italian marble.
 


Koutoubia Mosque
Towering over the labyrinthine streets and markets of Marrakech is the city's principal landmark, the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, known as the 'mosque of the booksellers' because of the bazaar of the book traders that used to be nearby. The red stone mosque was first built in 1147, but demolished and rebuilt in 1199 because it was not correctly aligned with Mecca. The mosque, basically a massive prayer hall, has 17 aisles and 112 columns, and room for thousands to pray within it. The ornately carved minbar (pulpit) is believed to have been a gift from the Almoravid Sultan Ali ben Youssef. The landmark minaret is 221ft (69m) high and consists of six chambers one atop the other, ascended by a ramp through which the muezzin ascends to the top balcony. The mosque is closed to non-Muslims, but the area around is a favourite place for an evening stroll.
 


Oukaimeden
A ski resort in the desert! Indeed, thick snow envelops the Jebal Oukaimeden mountain peak during the winter months (usually January and February), just a 46-mile (74km) drive from Marrakech. The town of Oukaimeden, which can be reached by taxi or self-drive car, is well equipped for the skiers that seek restaurants, ski equipment to rent, and comfortable hotels, set in lush greenery backed by blue mountains. Skiers can ascend the mountain by donkey or camel, but there are also modern ski lifts.
 


Dar Si Saïd Museum
The Museum, housed in a palace on the Riad Ezzitoun El Jadid, depicts the arts, crafts and culture of the Berber people, including displays of some Moorish cedarwood furniture, and artefacts from every day life in the Sahara desert. There is also a collection of door and window frames, elaborately carved and ornamented, in the museum courtyard.

 


Djemaa el-Fna
What it lacks in beauty, the large town square of Marrakech, Djemaa el-Fna (Square of the Dead) makes up for in pulsating liveliness that belies its name. Every day the square is a colourful circus of performing artists where snake charmers, musicians, storytellers and healers vie with each other to be noticed by the milling crowds; every evening food stalls take over and the competition is fierce among them for the passing trade, offering anything from boiled snails and sheep's heads to thick vegetable soup, kebabs or fresh salads. Freshly squeezed orange juice stalls stand side by side encircling the market and offer a refreshing drink both day and night. The square is a fascinating place to sit awhile at one of the surrounding cafes, watching the swirling parade. The square is also the gateway to the souks (bazaars) of Marrakech, tucked away in the surrounding labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys. It is easy to lose your way, but well worth exploring the plethora of craftsmen offering their wares. Bargain for anything from water mugs and dates to exotic Moroccan carpets. The souks are also well shaded from the searing Moroccan sun and therefore provide a respite from the heat.
 


Ben Youssef Madrasa
The Ben Youssef Madrassa was an Islamic college in Marrakech named after Sultan Ali ibn Yusuf (reigned 1106 to 1142), who expanded the city considerably. This madrassa was one of the largest theological colleges in North Africa and may have housed as many as 900 students. After being closed down in 1960, this Historical Site was refurbished and reopened in 1982, an interesting attraction for the value of its past and educational influence.

 


The Museum of Marrakech
The Museum of Marrakech is located in the Dar Menebhi Palace, built at the end of the 19th century by legendary Mehdi Menebhi, in the old centre of Marrakech. The palace was restored by the Omar Benjelloun Foundation and converted into a museum in 1997. The house itself is representative of classical Andalusian architecture, with fountains in the central courtyard, carvings and beautiful tiles. The museum holds exhibits of both modern and traditional Moroccan art, as well as historical books, coins and pottery.

 


Bab Agnaou
Bab Agnaou is one of the 19 gates of Marrakech and was built in the 12th century, in the time of the Almohad dynasty. The function of the gate may have been nationally symbolic; the corner-pieces are decorated with floral decorations, framed by three panels with inscriptions from the Quran. Bab Agnaou forms the entrance to the royal kasbah in southern Marrakech. The kasbah, built by the Almohad sultan Yaqub al-Mansour, is home to the El Mansouria mosque, the El Badi Palace and the Saadian Tombs.
 


Majorelle Garden
The Majorelle Garden is a botanical garden designed by the French artist Jacques Majorelle in 1924, during the colonial period when Morocco was a protectorate of France. Previous owners have included Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint-Laurent (whose ashes were scattered there when he died in 2008). The garden is also home to the Islamic Art Museum of Marrakech, whose collection includes North African textiles from Saint-Laurent's personal collection and paintings by Majorelle. The garden has more than 15 bird species endemic to North Africa.

 


Shrob ou shouf fountain
The Shrob ou shouf ( Chrob ou chouf) fountain is not far from the Ben Youssef Medrassa, built during Saadian sultan Ahmad al-Mansur's reign (1578-1603). Its wooden crown is carved to look like honeycomb and a green tiled roof shelters the structure. One of the fountain's inscriptions invites passers-by to drink and look ( shrob ou shouf). In 1985, UNESCO recognised this Saadian fountain as a cultural heritage site.
 


Souks
Marrakech is home to a labyrinth of bustling souks(workshops and markets) offering the city's most fascinating wares. Whether shopping or exploring, they are a must for any visitor. At the northern end of the souks, best accessed from the Ben Youssef Mosque, has blacksmiths making wrought-iron goods and the distinct odour of leather workshops. The stalls emerge further south and are met by the Rahba Kedima, a market famous for its bizarre offerings of animals and eccentric potions for spells.
 


El Badi Palace
El Badi Palace(the incomparable palace) consists of the remnants of a glorious palace built by the Saadian king Ahmad al-Mansur in 1578. The original building is thought to have had 360 rooms, a courtyard and a pool, decorated with Italian marbles and large amounts of Sudanese gold. It also has a small, underground jail where the king kept his prisoners. Unfortunately, the original palace was torn apart by the Alaouite Sultan Mawlay Ismail. The design of the palace is influenced by Granada's Alhambra.
 





Events

Marrakech Popular Arts Festival
Marrakech - Various, but mainly Badi Palace and Djemma el Fna

There is never a dull moment in this teeming city designed to inflict sensory overload, but during the summer Popular Arts Festival, Marrakech is more frenzied and alive than ever, the already-packed streets even more crowded with an abundance of tourists and Moroccans avid for fun. Artists, craftsmen, vendors, musicians, acrobats, fire-swallowers and dancers hold performances in every corner of the city, with the centre of the action at the ruined 16th-century Badi Palace, once the heart of the powerful Saadian Dynasty. One of the most popular features is the 'fantasia', a choreographed trick horse-riding spectacle held each evening in a field near the Bab Jdid just outside the city walls. 
 


Marathon des Sables
Marrakech - Ouarzazate

The week-long Sand Marathon takes place in the gruelling conditions of Moroccan desert with sandstorms and brain-frying heat as the major obstacles to achieving such an intense feat. The race is over 150 miles (241km) of craggy, sandswept terrain and competitors from around the world partake in the charity-driven event that benefits the infrastructure of the region. Only the fittest and most prepared are advised to partake.
 


Friendship Festival
Marrakech

This fantastic event is structured to bring different cultures together and encourage brotherhood. Marrakech's annual Friendship Festival features a variety of local and international talent, with performances ranging from traditional Moroccan music to American gospel rock.
 


Imilchil Marriage Festival
Marrakech - Imilchil

Inspired by Morocco's very own Romeo and Juliet story, this tribal marriage festival marries up to 40 couples while Berber tribesmen dance and give spontaneous musical performances. The event enables different tribes to meet and find partners, widening the gene pool. A number of festivities take place, making this mass blind date well worth attending. The dates of this festival depend on the harvest; consult the local tourist office for details.
 


Montreux Jazz Festival Morocco
Marrakech - Bahia Palace

Celebrated in the stunning setting of La Ménara and the Bahia Palace in Marrakech, the Moroccan version of the Montreux Jazz Festival combines all the memorable elements of this classic event. Workshops, acoustic concerts and the Montreux Jazz Club are all prepared to entertain casual visitors and jazz lovers alike.
 
 

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