Sunday, May 19, 2013

Chilean Patagonia



The fjords, glaciers and magnificent scenery of the Patagonian region are what attract visitors to this vast wilderness territory. The north, or Aisén region, can be likened to the Inside Passage of Alaska or New Zealand's Fjordland on South Island with its dramatic ice and waterway scenery. Southern Patagonia or Magallanes, is rugged, mountainous and stormy.
It was nearly 500 years ago that Ferdinand Magellan guided four ships through the treacherous passages that are still today thought of as the End of the World. Today Patagonia is inhabited by nearly 2 million people, but is still almost entirely made up of pristine and untouched nature.



The gravel highway known as the Camino Austral is the access point to one of the world's last great expanses of wilderness that makes up northern Patagonia. It begins at the port of Chaitén and continues to the capital of the region, Coihaique, and both are good bases for trips in the area. The most popular attraction in this region, despite the difficulty and expense of getting here, is the two million-hectare (four million-acre), glacier-filled Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael, which has some of the world's most spectacular mountain and fjord scenery.



Magallanes features glacially sculpted mountains and harsh landscapes with Torres del Paine National Park the most famous of the southern region's protected areas. Further south is the town of Puerto Natales, terminus of the extraordinary ferry trip through the fjords from Puerto Montt, and exploration base for the region. Beyond the continent lies the harsh and stormy archipelago of Tierra del Fuego, stretching further south, and closer to Antarctica, than any other inhabited place.

Attractions
Tierra del Fuego

Chilean Tierra del Fuego
At the very tip of Patagonia, beyond Chile, and all of South America, lies the archipelago of Tierra del Fuego, whose name translates to 'Land of Fire'. It is a dramatic name for a dramatic place, as the harsh winds of the sub-polar climate sweep over rocky mountains, sparse tundra, and hardy forests. Tierra del Fuego is an increasingly popular ecotravel destination, and adventurous travellers come to see wildlife that includes sea lions, foxes, condors, owls, and firecrown hummingbirds. Hiking and camping are popular activities, and the archipelago offers some of the best trout fishing in South America. While the savage natural beauty of the area is the main attraction for travellers there is also more traditional touristic sightseeing on offer: much of the tourism in Tierra del Fuego revolves around 'southernmost' things. The port town of Puerto Williams claims to be the southernmost city in the world, while the southernmost cathedral and temple are located in Punta Arenas. While Cape Horn is widely thought to be the southernmost island in South America, that title actually goes to The Diego Ramírez Islands, which are nesting grounds for many species of southern seabirds, including albatross, penguins and petrels. If you enjoy adventurous travelling off the beaten track then Tierra del Fuego will be a revelation.

Magellanic Penguins

Magdalena Island Penguin Reserve
The Magdalena Island Penguin Reserve is a paradise for birdwatchers, or for anybody who is fond of penguins. Magdalena Island is located 21.7 miles (35km) south of Punta Arenas. The reserve is a natural bird sanctuary, and is home to more than 100,000 birds, including 95 percent of the world's population of Magellanic Penguins as well as cormorants and seagulls. Because it is a sanctuary, the only facilities on Magdalena Island are for scientific research and not tourism. Guided tours are available to see the penguins in their natural habitat, and the lighthouse at the Environmental Interpretation Centre provides stunning panoramic views of the region. There are ferries available from Puntas Arenas, which take approximately two hours each way and provide snacks and coffee. These ferry rides are in themselves thrilling in that to reach Magdalena Island you cross the famous Straits of Magellan, traversing the same waters as Sir Francis Drake and Charles Darwin. Generally, you will be allowed about an hour on the island to observe the penguins in their natural habitat. The birds are naturally curious and very amusing to watch. They return every year between October and March to lay their eggs and raise their young - if you are lucky you may well see chicks.

San Rafael Lagoon

Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael
Created in 1959, Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael covers an area of 6,726 square miles (17,420 sq km) and includes the Northern Patagonian Ice Field. It was named for the San Rafael Lagoon that was created by the retreat of the San Rafael Glacier, and has been designated a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. A fjord more than 10 miles (16km) long is one of the park's principle attractions, along with some of the highest peaks in Patagonia, several glaciers, lakes and a rich variety of bird and sea life. While the majority of visitors to Laguna San Rafael never set foot on land, the magnificent views from the boat are such that will stay with you for a lifetime. If you take one of the larger boat trips to see the famous glaciers in the park you will almost certainly be given the opportunity to approach the ice flow in smaller boats and get up close to the glacier. For the really adventurous there are also multi-day sea kayaking tours of the area. Most visitors describe the trip as a once-in-a-lifetime, unforgettable experience and it is not hard to see why when looking at photos of the landscape. The glaciers are melting, making this attraction even more poignant and special; in a few years time the landscape may be quite different.

Torres del Paine National Park

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine
A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, this 180,000-hectare (442-acre) park is the pride and joy of southern Chile. The park takes its name from the towering granite pillars that rise over 6,560 feet (2,000m) above the Patagonian plains. It is a hiker's paradise with many excellent, well-developed trails that traverse astounding changes in scenery. The hikes consist of several circuits which vary in length and difficulty; there are very competent guides available, who may well be able to enrich your experience, but if you would prefer to explore without a guide you can. This amazing freedom is part of the appeal of the wilderness area for adventurers. Turquoise lakes and roaring waterfalls, forests and magnificent rambling glaciers, icy rivers, daisy-filled meadows, harsh mountain passes and plenty of wildlife, including the protected guanaco (wild relative of the llama), are some of its attractions. Visitors can also try their hand at outdoor activities like horseback riding, sailing and kayaking, rock climbing and fly-fishing. Two famous areas within the park are the French Valley and Silence Valley (only accessible with a guide). The sunrise hike to the towers that give the park its name is also highly recommended. For many people the world over the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine features prominently on their bucket list.



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