Downtown Buenos Aires is as sophisticated as any European city, with its wide avenues, fine colonial architecture and rows of pavement cafes. The city was built by French, Italian and Spanish immigrants and the Porteños (locals) still regard themselves as more European than South American. Travellers walking through the leafy parks and boulevards could be forgiven for thinking they were in Madrid, Paris or Milan.
Buenos Aires was founded on the shores of the Rio de la Plata in 1570 and was named after the patron saint of sailors for the good wind or buen aire.The city remained a colonial backwater for 200 years while the Spanish concentrated their attentions on wealthier Peru. During this time Buenos Aires became a thriving centre for smuggling between South America and Europe. Dissatisfaction with Spanish economic and political dominance escalated to boiling point and culminated in the revolution of May 1810 and finally to independence in 1816. Its history since then has been dogged by military coups and political mismanagement; the consequences of which are growing disaffection with the government and widespread poverty, as is evident in the sprawling shantytowns on the city's outskirts.
This turbulent history has not managed to stifle the indomitable spirit of the Porteños whose passion, charm and vibrancy have forged this great city, a place in which the fire of Evita's soul and the allure of the tango endure.
Attractions
La Boca ('the mouth') is the most colourful neighbourhood or barrioin Buenos Aires, original home of football legend Diego Maradona and the tango. An assortment of brightly painted low houses made of wood and metal line the streets, including the famed main street Caminito, in this poor but happy area full of artisans, painters, street performers, cantinas and open-air tango shows. The neighbourhood was originally settled by Italian immigrants, most of whom came to work in the docks. Today it is frequented by crowds of tourists who come to soak up the atmosphere.
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Plaza Dorrego lies in San Telmo, the bohemian artists' quarter and the birthplace of tango. The tiny square is surrounded by elegant houses, now mostly converted into antique shops and bars whose tables overflow onto the street. On Sundays the plaza is the setting for the ancient antique market, the Feria de San Pedro Telmo. Though you are unlikely to discover any bargains you may find an interesting souvenir or two. The stallholders pack up their wares at 5pm and the square becomes the setting for informal tango dances. This is as popular with the locals as it is with tourists and even the inexperienced may be tempted to try it out. There are numerous museums nearby the plaza worth visiting, including the Museo Histórico Nacional and the Museo de Arte Moderno.
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An unlikely tourist attraction, La Recoleta Cemetery is well worth visiting to see its magnificent display of monuments and the ostentatious tombs of Argentina's rich and famous. One of the more modest, but by far the most celebrated, is the grave of Eva Peron. Every day thousands of visitors come to leave flowers at the door of the Duarte family mausoleum, where she is buried. Forty years on, Evita remains both the most revered and reviled figure in Argentina. Love her or loathe her, her spirit lives on in La Recoleta.
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Two hundred and thirty miles (400km) south of Buenos Aires, Mar del Plata is by far Argentina's most popular beach resort. Around three million local tourists holiday here every summer, drawn to its busy beaches and lively entertainment. Visitors can alternate between spending idle days people-watching on the beach or enjoying a spot of culture at one of the city's small galleries. There is also the bustling port to visit with its numerous and colourful traditional fishing boats and noisy colony of sea lions. For a taste of the good life, the Mar del Plata has some excellent bars and restaurants and, at the height of summer, a non-stop nightlife. Some visitors prefer to travel outside the peak Christmas season when there are shorter queues for restaurants and the like. Even in winter the city doesn't close down, as there are half a million permanent residents.
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The Teatro Colón opened in 1908 is the second largest performing arts theatre in the southern hemisphere, second only to the Sydney Opera House in Australia. It was designed by Italian architect Francisco Tamburri and is an Italian Renaissance-style building with a seating capacity of 2,500 (although more people have been squeezed in at a time). It has hosted many international performers including Nijinsky, Pavlov, Pavarotti and Domingo. Guided tours take visitors to the theatre's workshops, rehearsal rooms, auditorium and stage.
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Other important buildings around the Plaza de Mayo include the Neoclassical Cathedral Metropolitana, which houses the tomb of General José de San Martin, the revered hero who liberated Argentina from the Spanish. The cathedral was periodically rebuilt and renovated since the foundation stone was laid in the 16th century. The current structure was finally completed in the mid-19th century. The interior has recently been renovated and the gilded columns, Venetian mosaic floors, and silver-plated altar are in pristine condition.
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One of the world's most famous balconies juts out of Argentina's Presidential Palace, known as the Casa Rosada. The pink building has been the scene of many a political rally, particularly during the regime of the notorious and tragic Juan and Eva Peron. The Italian style building, fronted with palm trees and fountains, was painted pink when it was converted from a Customs and Post Office building into the presidential palace. President Sarmiento decided to appease opposing political parties by merging red and white into a pink colour scheme for the palace. Today the building houses a small basement museum displaying some presidential artefacts. Each evening a small platoon of mounted grenadiers emerge from the guardhouse to lower the flag on the Plaza, adding a touch of pomp and ceremony to the pretty building.
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Opposite the Casa Rosada on the Plaza de Mayo is the resplendent former Spanish town hall, the Cabildo, a fascinating old colonial building fronted by arches that once encircled the plaza, back during the May Revolution in 1810. The guards outside the building are members of the revered Regimiento de Patricios, which was formed in 1806, and the changing of the guard every hour is a popular attraction. They still wear their traditional uniforms, designed nearly 200 years ago. The interior houses a small museum, which displays some interesting architectural relics, religious icons as well as watercolour paintings by Enrique Pellegrini.
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Floralis Generica is a working metal sculpture located on the United Nations square in Recoleta. It was offered to the city by Argentine architect Eduardo Fernando Catalano, who described it as an environmental structure. Its metallic petals open and close based on the incidence of solar rays and visitors to the site will find the giant metal sculpture 'in full bloom' in the heat of the day and closed at night. The sheer genius of the giant flower makes it a sight worth seeing.
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At 127 metres wide, Avenida 9 de Julio is claimed to be the widest avenue in the world, honouring Argentina's Independence Day which falls on 9th July. The avenue runs from the Retiro district in the north to Constitucion station in the south, roughly one kilometre to the west of the Rio de la Plata waterfront and consists of 18 lanes of traffic, nine on each side. In the middle of the street stands a 67-metre-tall obelisk marking the heart of Buenos Aires. Visitors can climb to the top where they can look out over the Avenida 9 de Julio through its four observation windows.
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Home to over 350 animal species and known for some of its exotic breeding, the Buenos Aires zoo is the perfect place for families, a romantic date or tourists. With nine species of mammals, 49 species of reptiles and 175 species of birds, the zoo's goals are to conserve species, produce research and educate the public. Disposable cameras are on sale and professional photographers are on standby to capture all the memories. Animal food can be bought at the entrance and other stations located around the zoo to encourage visitors' interaction with the animals. The best time to visit the zoo is on a sunny weekday afternoon, when time can be spent lounging in front of the white tiger enclosure, for which the zoo is well-known, or elephant house with only a few other people to contend with for the best view.
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Located inside the Abasto Shopping Centre, the Museo de Los Ninos is a great way fro children to explore a multitude of future careers by means of interactive exhibits. The exhibits include a miniature TV station with working cameras, doctor's office, radio station and even a newspaper office. Children will love experiencing a 'day in the life' of one of these professions.
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A real-life version of Punch and Judy takes place at the Centreo Cultural del Sur and regular puppet shows and puppet making classes are guaranteed to keep children occupied for hours. Children will love the chance to interact with other kids as well as creating their own puppets and imaginary worlds.
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The inner-city park of Bosques de Palermo is a great place for families to relax and unwind on a warm summers afternoon. The park offers plenty of space for kids to run around and play and other family-oriented activities to be enjoyed include rental paddleboats, bikes and carts. The park is also home to two manmade lakes, sculptures, rose gardens, the Eduardo Sívori Plastic Arts Museum and the Galilieo Galilei Planetarium.
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| Galileo Galilei Planetarium |
The Galileo Galilei Plantarium is located inside the Bosques de Palermo and its massive dome rises out of the horizon, making it almost impossible to miss. On any given day, this planetarium is abuzz with the chatter of children and inquisitive young minds coming for a spot of stargazing. This is a must for children of all ages and anyone with a love of stars, space and planets.
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Lined with trees, flowers and other indigenous plants, the Buenos Aires Botanical Gardens are a great place to take the kids for a day out. With plenty of open space to run around, the gardens make an ideal location to relax with a picnic or just take a leisurely walk with the family. The central greenhouse is also great to explore fo rthe more inquisitive-minded children.
Events
Buenos Aires - Various
The sultry tango was born in Buenos Aires, and is celebrated in the city in fine style for six days and nights during the annual Tango Festival. Visitors and locals, experts and beginners, all swirl and twirl in legendary Corrientes Avenue and the numerous 'milonga portena' dance salons. There are demonstrations, free lessons and plenty of music performed in concerts by soloists and orchestras.
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Buenos Aires - Palermo Stadium
Polo was introduced to Argentina by the British and has become a major national sport. Argentina is home to the world's best players, most of whom travel to England or the US in the winter to earn their living and return to Buenos Aires to compete in the most gruelling tournament of the year, the Argentine Open. The teams - which are often dominated by the big polo families of the Heguys, Merlos and Pieres - play a series of eight-chukka matches to a packed crowd at the Palermo stadium. | |  |
Buenos Aires - La Rural
The highly successful contemporary art fair arteBA is held every year at La Rural exhibition centre in Buenos Aires. National and international art galleries come together to offer contemporary art works to roving collectors and visitors. There is also an agenda of talks and open debates throughout the five days.
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| Vinos y Bodegas Wine Exhibition |
Buenos Aires - La Rural
Representatives from more than 100 of the country's wineries (bodegas) gather together under one roof and the public can sip and swill to their hearts' content. The Vinos y Bodegas Wine Exhibition is held at La Rural exhibition centre. Vino Express, organised by the Argentinean Association of Sommeliers, is a circuit of different stands where visitors can find out about specific wine regions, soils and terrains, grape cultivation and tasting techniques. Cooking demonstrations provide a timely and very welcome pause for digestion.
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Buenos Aires - La Rural
The Buenos Aires Book Fair is an eagerly awaited annual event in the Argentine capital. More than a million people head for this three-week event at the La Rural exhibition complex where each year special lectures are run. In the past they have covered the history of jazz, workshops on scriptwriting and the history of Argentine art, all given by leading professors and lecturers. Alongside the events for specialists and publishing professionals, there are exhibitions and book sales of literature in all languages, educational activities including discussion forums, roundtables, book readings, presentations and signings, courses, workshops and activities for children and adolescents, all of which are divided into international and national sections.
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| International Guitar Festival |
Buenos Aires - Centro Cultural General San Martin, Centro Nacional de la Musica, Congreso Nacional
The International Guitar Festival brings some of the best guitar prodigies to Buenos Aires for a weekend of classical, flamenco, and traditional guitar playing. The festival started back in 1994 and since then more than 200,000 people have attended the festival which has seen hundreds of musicians from scores of countries. The free and open display of guitar skills is a prestigious and well-known event in Buenos Aires.
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| International Rural Exhibition |
Buenos Aires - La Rural
This exhibition of livestock, agriculture and industry at La Rural gives an interesting insight into the international agricultural market. Activities, such as cattle competitions, take place in the courtyard throughout the day. Agriculture and livestock have always been important Argentinean industries and were responsible for a large part of the country's financial growth in the past few centuries.
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| Buenos Aires International Jazz Festival |
Buenos Aires - ND Ateneo, 918 Paraguay
For the avid jazz fan, the Buenos Aires International Jazz Festival is a must if visiting the city. Taking place at the ND Aneneo cultural space, the festival has included musicians such as saxophonist James Moody, the Terence Blanchard Quintet, the Cuban pianist Gonzalo Rubalcaba and the local porteñofavourite, the trumpeter Roberto 'Fats' Fernández.
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