Brazil is all about the beach and the rainforest, isn't it? But forays into the Amazon and thatched bars in Trancoso aren't the whole story.
Two hours' drive north-east of São Paulo is the Swiss-style town of Campos do Jordão, high in the Mantiqueira Mountains, where lakes of morning mist gather in tree-clad valleys, lone vultures ride the thermals, and Brazil's movers and shakers go in July for the novelty of packing a winter wardrobe in their own country.
It is here the Botanique Hotel & Spa . Brazil has been rather reticent on statement hotels, so this 11-villa, six-suite retreat is striking, not just for its architecture. And as well as providing 600-threadcount thrills, it showcases the best of Brazil. Its three chefs forage berries, ferns and bark for seasoning; up-and-coming designers were briefed to create bespoke mahogany chairs and tables; and, in addition to artisanal wines, coffee and cigars there is a menu of regional waters with tasting notes by a geologist. As for the country's rich seam of music, crate-loads of rare records were sourced to create a Brazilian playlist with, as co-owner Ricardo Semler says, 'not a single song that can be hummed by a Brazilian'.
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