Dutch Treat

The Caribbean island of Curaçao holds an appeal that goes beyond stellar snorkeling and diving opportunities. There’s a rich history and cultural lesson that isn’t to be missed.

The Tree House Mansion Terrace

The 171-square-mile island of Curaçao, in the southern Caribbean Sea off the Venezuelan coast, is the largest and most populous of the three ABC islands (Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao) of the Lesser Antilles—or specifically, the Leeward Antilles. Like Aruba and Bonaire, Curaçao is geographically part of South America, but is also considered to be part of West Indies and one of the Leeward Antilles. Confused? Don’t be. All that matters is that you have a valid passport and can get there, and once you do, you’ll understand why.

Close to 40 beaches with amazing coral reefs and diving spots on its calm southern coast make Curaçao feel like one of those Caribbean islands that one imagines when dreaming of an island getaway. The sea floor here drops steeply within a few hundred feet of the shore—this is known as “the blue edge”—and the reef can easily be reached without a boat, meaning beachgoers can walk a few steps from the comfort of their beach chairs to the water’s edge, don their scuba gear and get busy. (Strong currents and lack of beaches make the rocky northern coast dangerous for swimming and diving, but make for fantastic photo ops.) The country’s semiarid climate makes it comfortable, with relatively constant temperatures that average out at 88 degrees, so it lives up to the Caribbean’s reputation as a balmy place to be. Delicious tradewinds help cool down warm daytime temps and warm cooler temps at night. The shape of the island is often said to resemble that of a “bikini top,” because of its two distinctive sides.

That’s the islandy part of the Curaçao experience. But there’s much more available than sunning and swimming to the inquisitive visitor, most notably in the form of a rich and colorful history.

The colorful historic buildings of Willemstad, Curaçao’s capital

Willemstad, which was originally founded as Santa Ana by the Spanish in the 1500s and renamed in the 17th century by Dutch traders, is Curaçao’s capital. Compact and bustling, it’s alive with local color of both the literal and figurative kind. Historic pastel-colored buildings line up like crayons in a Crayola box, as breathtaking to view by night, when they are lit up and visible across Saint Anna Bay, which runs through the heart of the capital, as they are in the light of day. The pedestrian-only Queen Emma bridge, a pontoon bridge, opens approximately every 30 minutes to allow boats to pass through, as ship repair is the main industry here.

The lobby at the Lodge Kura Hulanda

Guestrooms at night at Hotel Kura Hulanda

Downtown Willemstad has two central districts on either bank of the bay. There’s Punda—which is Papiamentu, the native language here, for “The Point”—and Otrabanda, or “the other bank” in Papiamentu. Punda is the east and oldest part of town, while Otrabanda on the west, home to Rif Fort, which was run by the U.S. Army during World War II, is home to high-end retail stores, restaurants and a casino. The Dutch heritage is evident everywhere, and should be embraced, especially when taking meals. Indulge in local specialties like keshi yena, a traditional baked dish that marries spicy shredded chicken, dates, raisins, olives and melted Gouda cheese, or tu tu, local polenta with beans. More adventurous types may want to go for the iguana soup or goat stew. Purists who prefer to go for what they know should make it their business to be in Curaçao on a Friday night and get an in-the-know local to take them to Equus. Open only on Friday nights, this barbecue spot is on the premises of a horse trainer’s ranch; he personally oversees the cooking to perfection of giant skewers of beef and chicken, which are then hung overhead before guests, who yank off the juicy chunks with their hands (no silverware here) and bliss out. The meat is served with heaps of crusty bread and an indescribably delectable garlic sauce for dipping, and buckets of ice-cold beer or wine. The vibe is cozy and rustic, with a lively bar, flatscreens and excellent tunes wafting through.

A view of one of the villas at the Lodge Kura Hulanda

 

Where to stay if you go…

Kura Hulanda Resorts has something for every traveler’s interest, and that’s because it comprises two properties—the Hotel Kura Hulanda, and Lodge Kura Hulanda & Beach Club. Hotel Kura Hulanda, located in downtown Willemstad, is an 80-room boutique resort that was restored from 18th- and 19th-century Dutch Colonial Caribbean former residences, and no two rooms are alike. Like a little town unto itself, winding cobblestone walkways lead guests to their rooms; a center courtyard with umbrella-shaded seating is the perfect place to congregate for meals, enjoy an after-dinner drink with friends, or get a little work done on the laptop as birds swoop down and vie for your attention(and the sugar packets off your table). A spa and a fitness center are at your disposal, as are gift shops and the Museum Kura Hulanda (see sidebar), which are both on the premises.

Lodge Kura Hulanda and Beach Club—and by the way, there is a complimentary scheduled shuttle service between the two properties, which are a 45-minute drive apart—is a different world. A beachfront getaway on the island’s west end, it offers 74 villas, suites and guestrooms, and most remarkably, a treehouse mansion that must be seen to be believed. Most notable here is the diving, as there is a magnificent natural reef located just off the beach (an on-site dive shop offers snorkeling and scuba gear and paddleboats). Hang by the pool, tuck into some lunch or a cocktail (two of note: the Wiki Wacki Woo and the Beach Bum, both of which will, shall we say, relax you for several hours at a time), take in a massage, but whatever you choose to do, it will be some form of chilling.

Between the Sun and the Fun

Visit the Museum Kura Hulanda for a true understanding of this island’s fascinating history.

Kura Hulanda owner Jacob Dekker has a passion for Curaçao and a fascination for its history, as evidenced by the investment he has made in the country and in telling its story. His quest to share, with no detail spared, is evident in the Museum Kura Hulanda, which focuses on the predominant cultures of Curaçao, highlighting the African slave trade through 10 exhibits, along with West African and Antillean art and more. It’s been called “quite daring,” as it deals frankly with the complex history of the island’s slave trade and colonization (indeed, we were warned by our guide that experiencing it would be “heavy” and to be prepared to be stunned by items in the museum, such as KKK robes stained with blood). In the 16th century, upon the request of Bishop Bartolomé de las Casas of Chiapas to replace the native Caribbeans—who, because they were less hardy as laborers and often became so sick and physically broken down that many chose suicide over the fate of slavery—with more “durable” African slaves, King Charles V gave the green light to transport slaves from Africa. Eventually, in the 17th century, Curaçao became a center of the slave trade, and it’s believed by many historians that there was a slave depot in the area where the Museum Kura Hulanda now stands. It’s on the grounds of Hotel Kura Hulanda.