Saturday, July 20, 2013

Djerba, Tunis

     
This Tunisian island in the Gulf of Gabès has an enchanting history. Djerbans claim that the land described in Homer's epic The Odyssey is theirs. A popular local legend is that after Odysseus's ship had been blown off course around Greece, he and his crew found themselves in a strange land to the south of the Mediterranean where they encountered a race of people who ate the 'honeyed fruit' of the lotus flower. Experience the historic charm of the island in the biblical village of Er Riadh with its winding, cobbled streets and small courtyards full of bougainvillaea and cacti.

What To See

CRAFTS AND MARKETS
You could spend your whole weekend visiting the varied and fascinating markets on the island. Try Midoun (Friday morning), El May (Friday afternoon and Saturday morning), Er Riadh (Sunday morning) and the small capital Houmt Souk (Monday morning). This has a covered market full of leather goods, jewellery and carpets.

GUELLALA
You can take the standard three-hour island tour by taxi or, if you are feeling brave, borrow a bicycle from one of the hotels and cycle 10km to the village of Guellala, famous for its pottery. The road is lined with whitewashed shops, all selling local handmade pottery.

ER RIADH
Make sure you visit the village of Er Riadh with its Old Testament history. Jewish people have lived here since 586BC, just after the destruction of King Solomon's temple in Jerusalem. The present synagogue, El Ghriba, which dates from the 1920s, is a place of pilgrimage for Jewish people worldwide and tourists of all religions. The interior is a rich mix of blue tiles warmed by sunlight streaming in through coloured glass windows. Sparrows twitter from the steel candelabras and elderly men sit on dark wooden seats reading holy books.

BORJ JILLIJ
Make a detour to Borj Jillij, an 18th-century fort on the coast near the airport, to see the fishermen at work. Watch them setting out with boats piled high with date-palm leaves which they use to make fishing traps or chambres.

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