Paphos, Cyprus

The city of Paphos on the southwest coast of Cyprus was the capital of the island in Roman times, and dates from 1400 BC. Legend has it that the city is built on the spot where the Greek Goddess of Love, Aphrodite, was born. The city also has many connections to and relics from early Christianity. Over the centuries it has survived numerous foreign incursions and raids, and even a devastating earthquake in the 4th century. It lost out to Larnaca as a major port in the Middle Ages and experienced a decline during the British colonial period when development of this part of the island came to a standstill.
Today, however, Paphos is reviving on the strength of tourism and government investment in infrastructure such as dams, roads and airports. Private initiatives have also resulted in a boom in the construction of hotels, apartments and villas. The city has become a popular seaside resort with a large population. The Ktima section of the city is the main residential area, while Kato Paphos is the playground of holidaymakers, built around the medieval port with its numerous luxury hotels, tavernas and entertainment venues.

Attractions Acropolis Near the modern Paphos lighthouse is the Cypriot Acropolis: a complex of ancient buildings, including a Roman Odeon, built in the 2nd century, which has been restored and is now used for summer orchestral and stage performances. The Odeon was the focus of the ancient city centre, of which some ruins still remain in the area. South of the Odeon are the remnants of the Roman Temple of Asclepius, the God of Medicine, and north of the lighthouse are the ruins of the ancient town walls. One of the highlights of the acropolis is the stunning set of mosaics near the harbour, which are one of Cyprus's world-renowned ancient treasures. These incredibly well-preserved works of art often top the list of Cyprus attractions and have been delighting visitors for decades. On a more modern note, you can walk right up to the lighthouse and the views are lovely. Touring this incredible area can be swelteringly hot as there is not much shade, so it is best to come prepared with water bottles, hats and sunscreen. Better still, try to arrive either early in the day or late afternoon to miss the worst of the heat and crowds.   Agia Solomoni Catacombs A large pistachio tree marks the entrance to the underground catacombs of Agia Solomoni in Kato Paphos. The tree is a strange sight, festooned as it usually is with pieces of cloth tied onto it by the faithful as offerings, in the hope that this sacred tree will cure various ailments. The catacombs themselves were carved into Fabrica hill, below the ancient Roman city wall, in the 4th century BC, and later became chapels for the early Christians. The underground chapels feature some interesting frescoes and graffiti left by 13th century crusaders, and there are numerous legends and stories attached to the patron saint Ayia Solomoni. A number of visitors have pointed out that if you do not look around a bit you will only see a small portion of the catacombs - there is also little or no guidance or information on offer at the site so it is best to do some research before you go to understand what you are looking at. There is a small section of catacombs next to a sign on the main road and this part has christian chapels incorporated, but these only take a few minutes to visit. There are others close by, a little down the road, that are carved into the hill and boast some mosaics. There are even some other tunnels nearby that lead you to a manhole cover in the road above. With a little exploration this spooky place will delight visitors and there is something very special about the freedom with which you can wander. Visitors are advised to take a torch along to explore the catacombs.   Baths of Aphrodite A famous romantic side trip from Paphos is a visit to the natural grotto on the Akamas Peninsula near Polis, 30 miles (48km) north of Paphos, where legend has it that the Greek goddess of love, Aphrodite, used to take her baths. The serene pool, shaded by a fig tree and surrounded by beautiful examples of maindenhair fern, can be reached by nature trails from Akamas. This attraction has become a bit of a tourist trap and lately it is not the pristine and romantic experience people expect. You can't get into the water which disappoints many visitors, and if you are unlucky enough to visit when there are buses arriving you will hardly have a peaceful experience. However, the trails in the nature park around the pool are beautiful - you can walk all the way to the sea and there are lovely views. Depending on the time of year, and the time of day, tourists are either charmed by the pool itself or annoyed by what they feel is a lack of anything worthwhile to see. If you combine a brief stop off at the baths with a stroll around the nature park then you can make a great and relaxing excursion of it, but it is probably best not to make an effort to visit the area just to see the pool. There is a restaurant and bar at the site which makes for a good break from trekking in the park. The Mosaics of Paphos The striking mosaic floors in a series of ancient Roman noblemen's villas, dating from the 3rd to the 5th century, are a must-see for visitors to Paphos. The site where the villas are still being excavated can be found about 300 metres from the Paphos harbour. The mosaics featuring mythological scenes are visible in the houses of Dionysus, Orpheus and Aion, and the Villa of Theseus. The Villa of Dionysus was so named because of all the mosaics depicting the god of wine; similarly, the Villa of Theseus boasts a famous mosaic of Theseus slaying the minotaur. There are also stunning mosaics to be seen in the House of Four Seasons, so named after the piece depicting personifications of the seasons. All the mosaics were made of small cubes of marble and stone, called tesserae, with glass paste added to widen the range of colour. In the House of Dionysus, for example, 5,985 square feet (556 sq metres) of floor space in 14 rooms are covered with the gorgeous mosaics, which are a highlight of any trip to Cyprus.   Tombs of the Kings There are actually no kings buried here. Rather, the site known as the Tombs of the Kings, one mile (2km) northwest of Paphos Harbour towards Coral Bay, was the final resting place of about 100 Ptolemaic aristocrats who lived and died in the city between 3 BC and 3 AD. The tombs are impressive, carved out of solid rock, with some featuring Doric pillars and frescoed walls. Archaeological excavations are ongoing at the site, which also features a church known as Paleoekklisia, which sports traces of Byzantine frescoes. This incredibly interesting site usually features very high in tourist reviews of Paphos and it is thrilling to explore; there are few ancient burial sites in the world which you can explore with such freedom. The tombs are carved into a cliff above the sea and are beautifully situated. There is little shelter from the sun so be sure to come prepared with water, hats and sunscreen and try to avoid the hottest time of the day.